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    Saturday, April 24, 2010

    Madeleines

    I first came across madeleines when I dined at Delifrance. It looked different and rather expensive to me at $3.60 for 6 small shell-like pieces. Even when I tried them, the taste was't exactly memorable. Too
    dry was my first response. And the size is insufficient to gain a good mouthfeel.

    That was when I did not know better. Now, ironically, it's one of my favourite cakes and I enjoy seeing the "bump" rise inside the oven. The bump is a classic sign of success of madeleines and much chased after, at least by me!  Such is my fascination with it! Success wasn't immediate though. I researched cookbooks and recipes online and found that the steps given vary somewhat.

    1.  The main difference was the resting of the batter or dough which can vary from no resting, i.e immediate baking after mixing to resting for 2 hours to overnight.

    2.  Oven temperatures play a part too especially in raising the distinctive bump at the back of the shell biscuits. After 3 to 4 tries, I found that it is best to rest the batter overnight and to set the oven at a higher initial temperature of 220 deg C. Once the characteristic bump appears, lower the temperature down to 180 deg C to complete the baking. The entire baking process should take about 6 to 16 mins (depending on your oven and the size of your madeleines in tray) with transfer and rotation of pans up and down the upper and lower trays every 2-4 mins. This 2-temperature process is taken from La Tartine Gourmande website, which I love immensely!

    Do note that each oven has its personality too; either slow or fast to warm-up or just with hot spots here and there. Know yours intimately to adjust it accordingly. Mine has hot spots near to where the convection fan is and I must cover the pan with aluminium foil from the 40th minute or else the product will be too brown for my liking. Just experiment brave souls!

    Baking is to me the best philosophical lesson of life - you get immediate uncompromising feedback, you decide how long you need to recover (I once took about 1 month to before re-testing) and once you
    decide to return to the game (hurray!) confidence renewed, you are much better poised to take more fun tumbles along the way. I say fun as the situations of despair and forlonless when a baked good fails does
    give way to hope and resilence as I determined to conquer the recipe!

    Recipe (makes 25 pieces) - adapted from Chez Pim website.
















    4 eggs + 1 yolk
    120g granulated sugar
    50g honey (can reduce if you find it too sweet)
    160g melted butter, cooled for 5 mins
    200g plain flour

    Soft butter, for greasing

    The Day Before
    1.  Beat the eggs and sugar on top of a bain-marie (water bath) until the egg mixture is warm to the touch.
    2.  Add the honey and beat with your stand mixer till triple in volume.
    3.  Stop the mixer.  Take a cup of the mixture and fold into the melted butter. Pour this mixture back into item 2.
    4.  Fold in the flour with a spoon, GENTLY in 3 portions.
    5.  Cling wrap the mixing bowl and store overnight, preferably in the fridge.

    Prior to Baking
    1.  Pre-heat oven at 220 deg C at least 20 mins prior to baking. Place the tray such that the pan on it will be at the centre of the oven.
    2.  Butter madeleine pans (available from Phoon Huat stores).
    3.  Remove mixing bowl from the fridge and using 2 small spoons, make medium-sized scoops to plonk onto the madeleine pan.
    4.  Bake for 2-4 mins, all the while watching like a hawk.
    5.  Once you see the bump rising, lower the oven temperature to 180 deg C. Should the cake start to brown, rotate the tray 180 deg before that.
    6.  Transfer the tray up and down, remembering to rotate every 2 to 4 mins thereafter to allow even browning.  
    7.  Once you see the edges of the madeleines pull away from the edges, the cakes are done. 
    8.  Slide it out, remove and enjoy while warm.  Otherwise, store cooled at room temperature in air tight containers for about 3-4 days.